18 May 2007 / 28 Saur 1386 “Qala” means ‘walled compound;’ “no burj” means ‘nine towers.’ I have visited the headquarters of the Turquoise Mountain Foundation (TMF) several times. But on this particular evening, the light on the partially-ruined complex was remarkable. Of the nine towers, only one remains intact. One of the ruined towers […]
Qala-e No Burj: HQ of Turquoise Mountain Read More »
17 May 2007 / 27 Saur 1386 I have just learned enough Dari to ask politely if I can take a picture of someone that might be sensitive. Due respect and admiration goes to the Afghans who have lost a limb, and need to navigate the streets. It is one reason why I am unequivocally
16 May 2007 / 26 Saur 1386 Imagine life in Afghanistan under the Taliban, who ruled Kabul and most of the country from September 1996 to October 2001. Okay, now let me contest that vision. Yesterday I met a fellow who is specialized in information technology. We chatted for a bit, and he said that
A little reality-check Read More »
15 May 2007 / 25 Saur 1386 Generally the wind blows from the north here. But starting in May, the wind sometimes blows from the west. It is one thing for strong wind to pick up all the dust in the streets of Kabul. It is quite another to have the city enveloped in a
Khak Bad: the “dust wind” Read More »
12 May 2007 / 22 Saur 1386 I was invited on a picnic to Sultan’s qala just north of Kabul. Here, Sultan is growing roses which he hopes that Kabulis will buy, rather than the plastic flowers which are the current fashion. Sultan, maestro of roses. Next to Sultan’s land is a qala which was
Sultan’s Qala, Shomali Plain Read More »
11 May 2007 | 21 Saur 1386 On this Friday I went to Maranjan Hill with Samiullah. View of the old city from Tapa-e Maranjan. The straight avenue that heads towards the pass is Maiwand Avenue. It was cut through the Old City in 1949 by the mayor, as part of the work to modernize
10 May 2007 / 20 Saur 1386 Our fourth field trip was to Ashiqan wa Arifan, one of the oldest existing neighborhoods in Kabul. I took the class there on our fourth field trip, to see conservation, restoration, and the role of historic urban fabric for urban identity. Entry street in to Ashiqan wa Arifan
8 May 2007 / 18 Saur 1386 Shahr-e Naw (New City) is redeveloping dramatically these days. Dawn Erickson led me to the top of a building that didn’t exist four years ago and I photographed this panorama of the central part of Kabul: View southeast. Kuh-e Sher Darwaza, middle; Kuh-e Asmayi, right; Char ray-e Haji
Panorama from Safi restaurant Read More »
Sunday, 6 May 2007 / Yakshanbeh, 16 Saur 1386 From the Airport to Kabul University To this day, Kabul has no address system and there is no formal agreement on street names. However, I just realized that for the past year Kabul has had an effective address system for internet-users: it is the precision coordinates
Google Earth tour of Kabul Read More »
Saturday, 5 May 2007 / Shanbeh, 15 Saur 1386 (Hijra Solar) Where the Damage Remains This morning I pulled out of my side street and merged with the stream of bicycle traffic on the side of the main road towards the university. Then I noticed that the cyclist in front of me had crutches strapped
Hearts, minds, and dancers Read More »